The famous shuk of Mahane Yehuda in Jerusalem has undergone some major facelifts since I was a student in the early seventies. Still, the stalls are much the same, as well as the espirit of the people selling their varied wares. Nowadays, it's not just fruits and veggies, fish and meat, but also coffeehouses, fancy shmancy candles and halva to die for (if you eat enough you probably will, too).
If you go there (and I recommend that you do), please seek out Uzi's stall. This Yemenite healer will sell you a radioactive-green-looking gat drink (his version of Viagra), an almond concoction from the time of Maimonides (still tastes great), and rejuvenate your face with an etrog spray that he himself rubs in. He guarantees that it will erase the creases of time. I don't know whether or not it worked, but just wandering around Jerusalem this week made me feel thirty years younger, and turned all my wrinkles into 'winkles'. A gantze mechayeh.